So if the air conditioner outlet is working, then it pretty much narrows it down to the 15 amp breaker. (Or at least it was, until I did a minor mod.) On ours, the air conditioner outlet is on one breaker (the 20 amp one) and everything else is on the other breaker. To see whether it's the breaker, I would plug something into the air conditioner outlet and see whether it has juice. Make sure there's not a hidden GFI outlet somewhere, such as the one the fridge is plugged into. The two most likely culprits are the breaker itself, or a tripped GFI outlet. (The 120 volt breakers are part of the same panel, but they're not really part of the "converter"). The converter itself is not the problem-all it does is change 120 volts to 12 volts. Of course, I assume you already tried hitting the reset button. So if it's already off, pusing the test button won't do anything. It is possible to do major (and expensive) upgrades to RV charging systems, but upgrading an old Magnetek Converter is a substantial improvement for a modest cost.Yes, all the test button will do is trip the GFI and turn off the outlet (and other items downstream). We wish the Boost mode was a bit higher than 14.4 volts, but it is a big improvement over the original system. The LED status light is on solid green in Boost mode, on fast blink in Normal mode and slow blink in Storage mode. The Progressive Dynamics 4600 charger has a Boost mode of 14.4 volts (to bring the battery up to 90 percent of charge), Normal mode of 13.6 volts (to complete the charge), and a Storage mode of 13.2 volts to maintain the charge. Using the tiny button near the green LED you can force the charger into any of the 3 modes, which can be useful at times. The Progressive Dynamics upgrade has LED lights by each fuse which light up when a fuse is blown (very nice) and a green LED that shows which mode the 3-stage charger is in. If this is more than you feel capable of tackling you can have a RV shop or someone like Dan Neeley (itinerate Roadtrek handyman) do it for you. You will have extra fuse positions available so you can add more 12 VDC circuits if desired (we added three, 12 VDC outlets).īe sure to disconnect both shore power and your house battery before you work on the converter.Īnd be sure you label which fuse goes to what on the provided page to leave inside the box. We bought the PD4600 that was the recommended upgrade for our model of Magnetek.Īll the upgrade kits offer filtered power for all the 12 volt circuits, unlike the original Magnetek. WFCO and Progressive Dynamics both make upgrade kits to the Magnetek. You could replace the entire converter, but the easy solution is one of the upgrades that use the original RV Magnetek converter box and circuit breakers (for the 120 VAC side) yet replace the guts and the fuse board (12 VDC side). We believe some later model Magneteks did have two-stage charging. The maker tried to pick a middle of the road charging level, but the result is bad at both ends. If you have gel or AGM batteries you may avoid the mess and you cant add water, but it will shorten the life of your batteries. The problem is that if you have a low battery and plug into shore power that Magnetek can take several days to fully recharge your battery.Īlso, if you leave your camper plugged in for too many days, it will likely boil (overcharge) your batteries, meaning not only making a mess, but also requiring you add distilled water often (if you have a standard wet cell batteries). The battery charger for your house battery is built into your converter or your inverter, depending on what the RV manufacturer choose to install. There is a loss in doing this it is always better when running off batteries to run 12 VDC appliances rather than using 120 VAC appliances on an inverter your batteries will last longer. Magnetek Converter Troubleshooting Generator And Converts.
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